«HERCULES» AIRCRAFT - Hamilton

Today, we will talk about an exceptional project in many respects. First, the client is a former professional military personnel. Second, he is a master sergeant in the United States Air Force, and he also served in the United States Navy. Third, the mechanism used for the project is American, which is a rarity for us.

Our client outlined the main idea of the project: the dial should depict the American turboprop aircraft Lockheed C-130 "Hercules" – the most produced military transport aircraft in the world. Additionally, he formulated the main requirements in a concise and precise military style, which formed the basis of the technical specifications:

1. The movement should be a skeleton with strict geometric lines.
2. The plate must feature a propeller figure located around the barrel axis.
3. The dial should be a skeleton with the figure of the airplane.
4. The numbers, minute, and second markers on the dial should be filled with blue luminescent material.
5. The hands should be "Skeleton" type, sword-shaped, blued, and filled with luminescent material.
6. The back cover should have an engraving around the edge: "MSgt Joseph T. Stalaboin IV 1987-2010 USN/USAF."
7. The crown should be flat.
8. The strap should be in a strict military style.
9. The presence of an engraved anchor symbolizing the US Navy is mandatory.
10. The presence of an engraved image of the master sergeant chevron is mandatory.

He provided detailed illustrations and explanations for all of this. It's a pleasure to work with someone who clearly knows exactly what they want and how it should look.

Now let's talk about the mechanism chosen for this project. It was produced by the renowned American watch company Hamilton Watch Co. This company has a long history and numerous achievements, all of which have contributed to making Hamilton a strong and globally recognized watch brand. Hamilton was founded in Lancaster, Pennsylvania, USA, as a manufacturer of pocket watches. It was named after Andrew Hamilton, a Scottish-born lawyer who laid out and founded Lancaster County and was the original owner of the site where the watch factory was located. Initially, the company's specialization was in railroad watches for the rapidly expanding American railroads, which earned it the reputation of being the "Watch of Railroad Accuracy."

Hamilton Watch Company ceased American production in 1969, moving its manufacturing operations to the Buren factory in Switzerland. Through a series of mergers and acquisitions, Hamilton eventually became part of the Swatch Group, the world's largest watch manufacturing and marketing conglomerate.

For this project, the Hamilton Grade 921 caliber, size 10S, was used. This caliber was produced from 1936 to 1954, with a total of 52,000 units made. According to the size classification adopted by American manufacturers, this size corresponds to a diameter of 38.1 mm.

The mechanism is of high class, featuring numerous jewels set in gold chatons and a micro-regulator. The finishing is of the highest quality: the plate is decorated with circular pearling grain in the "perlage" technique (French – Le Perlage) or "fish scales," all bridges are processed using the "circular waves" technique (French – Cotes Circulares) and have wide hand-polished bevels, and blued screws.

For us, American pocket watch mechanisms represent not only a high level of technical execution but, above all, aesthetics. Moreover, the vast majority of mechanisms presented on the American market, both domestic and imported, were nickel-plated, unlike in Switzerland, Germany, and France, where gold plating was preferred. And, of course, the finishing is incredibly beautiful even in places hidden from view (in this mechanism, circular waves are even applied in the recess under the barrel wheel on the barrel bridge!).

According to the 1946 Hamilton Watch Co. catalog, watches with similar mechanisms in various case styles and with different dials were sold at prices ranging from $103.75 (case with 14-carat yellow gold-filled, dial with black hour markers) to $207.50 (case made of solid 14-carat yellow gold, dial with applied gold hour markers). The stated prices in 2024 are equivalent in purchasing power to approximately $1,458.77 and $2,917.54, respectively. Below are the catalog pages with descriptions of the calibers produced by the company in 1946, as well as case and dial options for watches featuring the 921 caliber, including model names in which this caliber was installed.

For this project, we chose a case made of SAE 316L stainless steel. It is a classic three-piece round case with straight lugs. Two sapphire crystals, resistant to mechanical impacts, will be installed – one on the front and one on the back. These will be secured with rubber gaskets to achieve a high level of water resistance. The front bezel snaps in place, while the back is screw-down.

After measuring the movement, the turner machined the case to the required internal fitting diameter and performed a fitting. The movement fit "like a glove," confirming the high skill level of the craftsman.

The client was offered three crown options. Despite initially wanting a flat one, he ultimately chose a more ergonomic, rounded, flattened "onion" crown. This large crown makes winding the powerful mainspring, typically used in pocket watches, easier.

Following the technical specifications and the client's wishes, our designer created a dial sketch. It is a skeleton dial, with the central feature being the silhouette of the legendary Lockheed C-130 "Hercules" seen from above. Since the sub-seconds dial in this watch is positioned at "9 o'clock," the aircraft is oriented with its nose at "1 o'clock." The highly "transparent" dial consists of a thin outer ring with dot minute markers and Arabic stencil hour markers. At the center of the small seconds sub-dial is the figure of an anchor, symbolizing the U.S. Navy.

After adjusting the sketch, a detailed model with all necessary dimensions was created. The 1.0 mm thick 925 sterling silver sheet, from which the dial will be made, along with the model, was sent to the craftsman for laser cutting and engraving.

After adjusting the sketch, a detailed model with all necessary dimensions was created. The 1.0 mm thick 925 sterling silver sheet, from which the dial will be made, along with the model, was sent to the craftsman for laser cutting and engraving.

Meanwhile, the watchmaker completely disassembled the mechanism, so to speak, "down to the last screw," cleaned and washed it, removing dirt and old lubrication. All the parts were meticulously arranged in special compartments.

The prepared platinum and movement bridges were handed over to the jeweler-engraver for skeletonization and engraving work.

According to the client's requirements, a specific inscription was to be applied on the case back of the watch. Designers presented two options to the client, from which he approved one. Subsequently, the inscription was laser engraved onto the case back.

We have started selecting the straps for the future watches in parallel. At the client's request, there will be two straps. One of the straps has been chosen from our warehouse stock. It is a strict, black-colored strap, hand-stitched from smooth leather and sewn with blue waxed linen thread, matching the color of the luminescent marks on the dial.

For the second strap, we opted for exotic leather. To accomplish this, we turned to our good friend and partner who has been crafting watch straps for many years with extensive experience. The master offered several options of shark, iguana, and alligator leather to choose from. Additionally, he advised us to consider strap models used in some "aviation" models of the well-known watch company IWC.

After consulting with the client, we chose alligator leather for its textured appearance for the second strap. Additionally, a butterfly clasp was selected for this strap, and we used laser engraving to apply the Hamilton logo onto it.

That's fantastic! A week later, we received from our partner a beautifully crafted, handmade strap of non-standard shape, measuring 22x20 mm, with a pair of rivets on each of the two strap parts. It looks absolutely stunning!

While we were working on the strap, the dial arrived from laser cutting. We fitted it into the case together with the movement, and everything matched perfectly.

Also, using the laser, according to the option proposed by our client, the hands for our project were cut from steel. Subsequently, they were polished, heated to a specific temperature to achieve the required shade, and filled with luminescent material.

After cutting, the master engraver manually refined the dial, polished it, and applied circular satin finishing to the outer and second rings. The aircraft silhouette was left with a matte finish to resemble the real object. Additionally, feet were soldered to the dial for secure attachment to the mechanism.

Next, the work on skeletonizing the platinum began. The contours of the dial details were transferred onto its surface, and the necessary markings were made. All the work was done manually by the master using a jeweler's saw and gravers. This time, no laser was used for the process.

The platinum is ready. Now it's time for the bridges. They were also skeletonized and engraved with geometric patterns. We didn't forget about our client's requirement for the engraved image of the chevron. The master placed it on the barrel bridge, next to the crown wheel and the inscription "U.S.A." By the way, all original inscriptions on the movement were preserved as plaques. In the future, the recesses in the chevron will be filled with black enamel, harmonizing with the inscriptions and seamlessly fitting into the overall aesthetic.

The engraving was also applied to the hour and minute wheels, which will be visible from the dial side.

After all engraving work was completed, the mechanism parts were polished. Subsequently, to protect against oxidation and enhance aesthetic appeal, both the mechanism and the dial were electroplated with a layer of white rhodium.

The finished clock components, along with all the accessories, were handed over to the watchmaker for regulation and assembly. The master also manufactured and installed the pivots on the hands

After applying luminous material to the minute and hour markers on the dial, they emit a bright and pleasant blue glow in the dark. The hands are subtly differentiated in shade for easier time reading, ensuring the markers and hands do not blend together. Pay attention to the exquisite detailing of the transporter's figure: the emblem of the United States Air Force is displayed on its left wing, while stencil letters representing the abbreviation of the United States Air Force are on its right wing. All lines and letters have been filled with black enamel, including the brand name "MOLE" of our watchmaking studio, Patina Watch Studio, located on the badge beneath the triangle at the 12 o'clock position.

All components of the watch are ready, the mechanism has been serviced, and we can proceed with the final assembly. Additionally, the customer has expressed one more wish, accompanied by informative illustrations as usual: all screws on the mechanism should be blued. We have fulfilled this requirement as well.

After a brief production meeting, the client was presented with the following solution to address the issue: to enhance contrast with the white markings and improve readability, the outer ring of the dial and the side seconds ring needed to be coated with black rhodium. The client approved this solution, and we proceeded accordingly.

The watch was disassembled, and the luminescent material and enamel on the dial were removed. Black rhodium was applied to the specified surfaces. Next, we refreshed the luminescent material on the markings and the black enamel on the aircraft figure. This adjustment made the markings much more visible against the dark background, and the aircraft now appeared more strikingly contrasted. The interim result was shown to the client once again, and this time, everything met their approval. We proceeded with the final assembly of the watch.

Now the final assembly is definitely completed. It turned out very well.

The assembled watch was fitted with one of the straps; the second one will also be sent to the customer.

As always, the final stage of the project in our workshop involves the mandatory procedure of checking the finished product for accuracy, power reserve, and compliance with internal quality standards. During the timegrapher test, the watch demonstrated commendable accuracy within -9 to +25 seconds per day with a power reserve exceeding 32 hours. Quality criteria were also met. All stakeholders signed off on the final document, the client settled the remaining balance for the watch, and they were shipped overseas.

It's time to announce the sacramental phrase: "Another project completed!" This project had its challenges, which we successfully overcame with the direct involvement and support of our client. Despite receiving numerous comments and clarifications from them, the collaboration was comfortable and productive. Their feedback was always pertinent, clear, and greatly appreciated.

Creating custom watches is akin to magic, requiring not only the skills of designers, artists, engineers, jewelers, and watchmakers but also close collaboration with the client. It's a process that blends traditions and innovations, craftsmanship, and creativity. Working together allows us to create unique timepieces that reflect the personality and tastes of their owner, bringing satisfaction and joy to both craftsmen and clients, infusing these watches with a special soul and charm, making them true works of art.

If our "HERCULES" AIRCRAFT has inspired you and ignited the idea of creating your own unique, one-of-a-kind timepiece, please do not hesitate to reach out to us. The specialists at Patina Watch Studio will gladly help you bring all your ideas, desires, and dreams to life. Whether you wish to commission custom-designed watches or purchase ready-made pieces from our inventory, you can explore the relevant section on our website.

We only use high-quality materials in our work, including precious metals and stones. Our highly skilled craftsmen have honed their expertise to guarantee high standards in all production operations and ensure that the final product meets all your requirements without compromise. We always strive to exceed your expectations, and more often than not, we succeed.

All our watches are crafted using antique and modern mechanisms from renowned Swiss, German, and American manufacturers such as Vacheron Constantin, Patek Philippe, Ulysse Nardin, LeCoultre, Piaget, Rolex, ETA, Zenith, Longines, Omega, A. Lange & Söhne, Hamilton, Elgin, Howard, and many others. Whether it's an everyday model, a formal dress watch, or a luxurious men's skeleton watch adorned with diamonds, we cater to various tastes and styles.

We offer a personalized approach, a deep understanding of customer needs and desires, and maximum customization that reflects your inner world, passions, preferences, life values, or significant life events (as in this project). Watches created according to your ideas and with your direct involvement will truly be unique in the universe.

We are ready to listen to you, while the rest of the world listens only to the voice of brands.