GENEALOGICAL TREE Jules Jürgensen
Jules Jürgensen
This time was no different. Another client was impressed by the result of the previous project, appreciated the symbolism and meaningful content, and ordered a similar watch.
To start, he sketched out his genealogical tree for three generations. Our artist drew a sketch of the future watch dial on paper. In this case, the family tree is depicted as a mighty oak with strong roots and a lush, branching crown. Along the outer edge of the dial, there is a vegetal ornament of oak leaves and acorns.
The sketch was approved by the client. Then a technical specification for the project was drawn up, detailing all the client's requirements and wishes, estimating the preliminary budget, receiving an advance payment – and the work began in earnest.
The project concept is clear and understandable, but the mechanism still needs to be decided. Attentive readers will, of course, notice the name of a well-known watch manufacturer on the dial sketch. However, this was just the initial intention. Later, upon seeing another mechanism, the client immediately changed his mind and preferred the latter.
This is not surprising, as the mechanism he saw was produced by the Swiss watch manufacturer with Danish roots, Jules Jürgensen, whose name stands alongside such renowned and respected manufacturers as Patek Philippe, Vacheron Constantin, and Louis Audemars.
After significantly developing his watchmaking skills over the next 14 years, Jörgensen returned to his native Copenhagen in 1773. Changing his name to Jürgen Jürgensen, he replaced "ö" with "ü" and started his own business.
Jürgen Jürgensen became the founding father of a watchmaking dynasty that revolutionized outdated watch designs and craftsmanship in Denmark and Switzerland. By utilizing new theoretical discoveries and practical methods, they achieved the highest recognition in both Denmark and Switzerland.
Jürgen's son, Urban Jürgensen (1776-1830), born in Copenhagen, followed in his father's footsteps. He was a brilliant engineer and visionary, far ahead of his time in creativity and aesthetics. As a watchmaker, inventor, and aesthete, he is considered one of the greatest talents in Danish history.
His book on horology, "Principes Généraux de l'Exacte Mesure du temps par les Horloges," was translated into several languages and remains a standard reference to this day. Between 1811 and 1830, Urban Jürgensen's workshops produced about 700 watches, 45 marine chronometers, and 6 astronomical pendulum clocks.
Urban's two sons, Louis Urban (1800-1867) and Jules Frederik (1808-1877), learned from their talented father and developed equally exceptional watchmaking skills. After their father's death, the two brothers took over the company, renaming it Urban Jürgensen & Sønner. Since its founding, Urban Jürgensen & Sønner has always cultivated a policy of maximum quality in horological art, focusing on the technical perfection of the mechanism combined with artistically designed cases, dials, and hands of classical elegance.
Between 1834 and 1912, Jürgensen watches received more than 32 international awards for design and craftsmanship.
In the following years, the company, which had production facilities in Copenhagen and Le Locle, changed owners several times, limiting long-term planning and strategy definition. Thanks to a fortunate encounter with Søren Petersen, a Danish watch collector and businessman, in late 2014, the Danish Private Investment Group, led by Petersen and five other investors, acquired the company after 30 years of foreign ownership.
Regarding the name on the dial and mechanism, Charles-Wilhelm Lodtmann (1830-1894) was a Swiss watchmaker and merchant, a citizen of the canton of Neuchâtel, residing in La Chaux-de-Fonds. In the Swiss horology directory INDICATEUR L'HORLOGERIE SUISSE, F-L. DAVOINE for the years 1865 and 1866, he is listed as an assembler of high-quality mechanisms (French – genre soigné). Additionally, from 1873 to 1878, he was a member of the school committee of the La Chaux-de-Fonds Watchmaking School.
But let's return to the mechanism. This caliber is commonly referred to in horological literature as the "Jürgensen caliber type 2." It has several distinctive and recognizable construction features that allow it to be identified unmistakably: a central bridge with a curve and an off-center hole for the jewel of the second wheel axis relative to the central axis of the bridge's symmetry; a split bridge for the anchor and intermediate wheels with rounded "horns"; a curved shape of the anchor bridge; and an unusual hammer-shaped balance bridge adjacent to the central bridge.
The "Savonnette" type mechanism measures 45.2 mm in diameter and 6.8 mm in thickness, featuring a subsidiary seconds dial at 6 o'clock and the winding crown at 3 o'clock. The mechanism is nickel-plated, with polished split bridges featuring broad chamfers. It includes bright, clean rubies, polished screws, and a steel regulator. The plates are decorated on both sides using the decorative technique of "perlage."
This high-class mechanism is distinguished by gold overlays on the bridges of the anchor wheel and anchor fork, secured with two screws for jewel settings, a central jewel in a gold chaton, a Maltese cross on the winding barrel, wolf's teeth on the crown and barrel wheels, and it boasts 20 ruby jewels.
Below is a photo comparison placing the presented mechanism in the center alongside signed mechanisms from Jules Jürgensen of a similar caliber.
According to the manufacturing records of Jules Jürgensen, mechanism number 14984 is recorded as a 20 ligne "Savonnette" type. The ébauche was purchased in 1890 from Piguet Frères for 40.00 Swiss francs. It was part of a series of six identical mechanisms with serial numbers 14983-14988. All were finished in the Jules Jürgensen workshop, with the finishing and adjustment work costing 98.50 Swiss francs per mechanism.
None of the six mechanisms were cased. They were all sold as complete movements, even without dials. Since the sales registers of Jules Jürgensen are lost, the specific buyers cannot be identified. However, considering all the aforementioned facts and features, it can be reasonably asserted that at least one of these mechanisms with serial number 14984 was sold to the watchmaker Charles Lodtmann from La Chaux-de-Fonds, who fitted it with a signed dial, housed it in a case, and sold it under his own name.
Thus, the exact production date of this mechanism is established as 1890, making it 134 years old! Another factor indicating the rarity of this specimen is that from 1836 to 1912, Jules Jürgensen produced only about 16,000 watches, which is very few compared to other renowned manufacturers.
Additionally, the production cost of this mechanism can be calculated at 138.50 Swiss francs. Unfortunately, the selling price is unknown. However, for comparison, in 1910 in the USA, a 12-size gold pocket watch by Jules Jürgensen with 21 jewels and an observatory trial certificate cost $300, whereas similar watches by Patek Philippe sold for $225 and by Vacheron Constantin for $160.
For reference: in terms of purchasing power, 138.50 CHF in 1890 is approximately equivalent to 1,014.90 USD today. However, based on gold prices in 1890 and 2024, 138.50 CHF in 1890 is equivalent to 3,071.20 CHF in 2024.
Total Diameter: 45.2 mm (20''')
Heigh: 6.8 mm
Number of Jewels: 20
Vibrations per Hour: 18,000 vph (2.5 Hz)
Power Reserve: 30 hours
Winding: Manual
- Patented Jürgensen lever escapement with double roller and straight-line positioning of axes.
- Isochronous balance spring with Breguet overcoil.
- Split bimetallic thermocompensated balance with gold timing screws.
- Polished long lever escapement with cavalier-type counterweights and open ruby pallets.
Manufacturer: Jules Jürgensen
Year of Production:1890
Movement Type: Anchor, Savonnette
Material: Brass movement, nickel coating, steel
Functions:
- Hours
- Minutes
- Subsidiary seconds dial at 6 o'clock
Features:
- Manual winding using a winding crown
- Hands setting by means of a lever
- Central jewel in a gold chaton
- Jewel settings on the bridges of the escapement wheel and pallet fork with gold settings
Finishing Quality:
- Final finishing
- Nickel-plating
- Circular graining using "perlage" technique
- All bridges with chamfering
- All steel parts polished and chamfered
- Polished screw heads
Country of Manufacture: Switzerland
After selecting the mechanism for the project, we conducted meticulous measurements of its parameters, and the lathe operator crafted a brass template considering the additional height of the dial to manufacture the future watch case. According to the technical specifications, the case and winding crown are to be made from titanium.
The master machined the case in a classic round shape, with a diameter of 51.0 mm and a thickness of 12.0 mm, featuring straight rounded lugs. The width between the lugs is 22.0 mm. Sapphire crystals will be installed in the front and back covers, spherical and flat, respectively. Template fitting confirmed that the dimensions were accurately maintained.
The crown is quite large, cylindrical in shape, with a ribbed side surface. This shape facilitates winding the relatively powerful mainsprings that were installed in pocket watch movements.
The case consists of three main parts: a central body and two covers that snap onto it.
After that, the master machined a new crown, fabricated and installed a tube to ensure the case's waterproofing, and fitted the movement.
Meanwhile, the watchmaker diagnosed the mechanism, disassembled it, and cleaned it from dirt and old lubricants. The prepared mechanism was then sent to the jeweler-engraver for skeletonization and engraving.
Meanwhile, based on the approved sketch, the designer developed a dial layout considering the dimensions of the mechanism, which were agreed upon with the client.
It seems like you've described the approved design layout sent together with a 1.0 mm thick sterling silver sheet (925 fineness) to a specialist for laser cutting and engraving. The result should be a blank piece like this.
The mandatory step is fitting the blank into the case together with the mechanism.
Our client wanted to have a monogram engraving in the form of a cartouche on the winding crown. They requested it, and we delivered.
Initially, we planned to solder feet onto the dial for mounting on the mechanism. However, the original "hunting case" dial was mounted using a steel ring secured along its outer edge. Therefore, we decided to forego the feet option to avoid drilling additional holes in the mechanism's platinum and instead installed a compression ring from the original dial onto the new dial. This decision required us to make an additional recess in the watch case to accommodate the dial ring.
Having fitted the dial onto the mechanism and placed it in the case, everything aligned perfectly with the necessary clearances.
Next, the dial was entrusted to the skilled hands of our engraver. Hand finishing after laser engraving is an essential stage always carried out by our artisans. Using exclusively hand tools, they impart the necessary relief and dimension to various elements.
In this case, the oak crown, trunk, and root system were meticulously crafted.
Additionally, all inscriptions were carefully incised, and the shields were adjusted.
The work done is colossal. All plant elements look very realistic. Once again, we can only admire the skill of our engraver.
After finishing with the dial, the jeweler-engraver proceeded to work on the mechanism. Initially, he marked out the future patterns on the bridges' surfaces.
The client requested that the engraving be done in a baroque-style vegetal pattern, echoing the ornamentation on the dial.
Deep skeletonization and engraving of all the bridges of the mechanism were completed. All the work was done by the master by hand, using gravers. This is a very meticulous and labor-intensive process that requires a steady hand and artistic talent.
The resulting skeletonization can confidently be classified as belonging to the highest class in terms of complexity and execution of engraving work. It's noteworthy that all the original inscriptions on the mechanism have been preserved and incorporated into the new design.
Besides the platinum and bridges, the barrel of the mainspring mechanism also underwent engraving and skeletonization.
Next, the dial and the mechanism underwent fitting, which showed that all elements aligned perfectly and were harmoniously positioned, creating a unified picture.
The jeweler conducted a final polishing of the dial, after which, using electroplating, yellow and red gold, white, and black rhodium were applied to specific areas of its surface.
Afterwards, the master watchmaker converted the hand-winding mechanism from a lever to a crown winding, more familiar to contemporary users. Following this modification, the mechanism was coated with a layer of electroplated gold.
Using an electroplating pencil, black rhodium was applied along the edges of the bridges, highlighting their form and adding additional aesthetic appeal to the entire mechanism.
Traditional fitting of the assembled dial onto the mechanism allows for the identification and elimination of any possible discrepancies or imperfections.
It was decided, following discussions with the client, to satin-finish the case before the final assembly. This treatment not only enhances aesthetics but also serves a practical purpose: satin finishes are less prone to showing micro-scratches that inevitably occur on metal surfaces during watch use.
To complete the picture, we still need to manufacture the hands and the strap. The client chose "Open Diamond" hands, which were polished and gold-plated.
For this project, a handmade alligator leather strap in brown, stitched with brown linen thread in saddle stitch, was specially crafted. The stainless steel buckle was sandblasted to achieve a matte finish matching the case.
Once all components were ready, the watchmaker assembled, serviced, and adjusted the mechanism. Then, they proceeded with the final assembly of the watch.
The completed timepiece then underwent accuracy testing, durability checks, and quality assurance inspections to ensure it meets the standards set by our watch studio.
On the timing machine, the watch showed quite accurate performance with deviations ranging from -22 to +25 seconds per day in various positions. This is an excellent result for a mechanism over 130 years old. The manufacturer's reputation speaks volumes about the quality of the product. Jules Jürgensen was renowned for the quality of its craftsmanship, assembly, and adjustment of its mechanisms, paying meticulous attention to detail.
The watches successfully passed the quality inspection, and a corresponding certificate was signed by the inspectors. Following this, the product was handed over to the customer.
The project is complete. Through the hands of our craftsmen, another masterpiece of jewelry and horological art has been created. We have given new life to a beautiful antique mechanism from a respected manufacture. Moreover, before our eyes, a new family heirloom has been born, which we hope will be passed down through generations, symbolizing the connection between the past and the future.
Thanks to the transparent case back, our client can admire the splendid work of the engraver and observe the operation of the venerable yet highly quality and reliable high-class mechanism, counting the unique moments of our lives.
With this genuine men's accessory, our client emphasized their commitment to timeless family values through generational continuity. In addition, the watches are fully functional and suitable for use as timekeeping instruments. They are vibrant and stylish, undoubtedly helping their owner to underscore their status and taste.
If you have been inspired by our "Genealogical Tree" concept and have a burning desire to create something similar, Patina Watch Studio would be delighted to assist you.
We specialize in crafting watches based on antique and modern mechanisms from renowned Swiss, German, and American manufacturers, including Vacheron Constantin, Patek Philippe, Ulysse Nardin, LeCoultre, Piaget, Rolex, ETA, Zenith, Longines, Omega, A. Lange & Söhne, Hamilton, Elgin, Howard, and many others. Whether it's an everyday model, formal dress watches, or luxurious men's skeletonized watches with diamonds, we cater to diverse tastes.
Our watch studio offers a personalized approach, deep understanding of client needs and desires, and maximum customization to reflect your inner world, passions, preferences, life values, or significant life events.
At Patina Watch Studio, we use only high-quality materials, including precious metals and stones. Our highly skilled craftsmen ensure high standards in every manufacturing process, guaranteeing that the final product meets all your requirements.
You can always customize your own watch or choose from our selection of ready-made pieces by visiting the relevant section on our website.
Time is a priceless resource, and we are confident that your new watches will help you appreciate every moment of your life in a new way. Take advantage of this unique opportunity and create the watches of your dreams, embodying your boldest ideas and desires.
