FAMILY TREE Rolex
Another genealogy-themed project. In addition to the project's work, today's material will focus on historical aspects, particularly the manufacturers of the movement and case of the pocket watch that formed the basis of this project.
FAMILY TREE
Rolex
Rolex
A very popular direction in custom watch creation is reflected in our new project. Inspired by the photographs of a similar project in our portfolio, our latest client wished to have a watch in their collection that would tell the story of their commitment to traditional family values and emphasize the importance of a strong family hearth for everyone.
The client outlined the main requirements, based on which a technical specification was compiled and approved. Key points:
1. Case – classic round shape, 43.0 mm in diameter, brass with gold plating.
2. Dial – silver, skeletonized, engraved, gold-plated, rhodium-plated.
3. Movement – skeletonized, engraved, gold-plated.
4. Strap – premium class, width 24/22 mm.
The client outlined the main requirements, based on which a technical specification was compiled and approved. Key points:
1. Case – classic round shape, 43.0 mm in diameter, brass with gold plating.
2. Dial – silver, skeletonized, engraved, gold-plated, rhodium-plated.
3. Movement – skeletonized, engraved, gold-plated.
4. Strap – premium class, width 24/22 mm.
Considering the desired case diameter, we selected a pocket watch movement by Rolex for the project – the most renowned Swiss watch brand. This movement embodies all of Rolex's demands for perfection in execution and celebrates the horological heritage of the great manufacture in its most timeless form.
The concept of sustainable development has always been fundamental to the existence of the brand, which creates durable, timeless watches. This approach reflects the "philosophy of eternity," which has been the driving force of Rolex since the brand's founding in 1905, when 24-year-old Hans Wilsdorf registered a watch distribution company in London with his brother-in-law Alfred Davis.
For over 100 years, the name Rolex has symbolized quality, status, and prestige, making it one of the most counterfeited watch brands in the world.
Currently, the company produces around 800,000 watches annually. Rolex is the manufacturer with the highest number of chronometer-certified movements, reaching 600,000 certified movements each year – a number unmatched by any other company. Due to the high proportion of gold watches, Rolex, using about 13 tons of gold annually, is also the largest consumer of gold in Switzerland.
Rolex is one of the seven companies with annual watch sales exceeding 1 billion Swiss francs in recent years among independent companies, alongside Audemars Piguet and Patek Philippe.
Initially, the movement was housed in a smooth, polished triple-case "Savonnette" watch of the so-called "English style" (a wide, rounded profile with small protrusions, a massive neck, and a large round crown), which was considered the most practical and fashionable shape for men's watches for several decades.
Currently, the company produces around 800,000 watches annually. Rolex is the manufacturer with the highest number of chronometer-certified movements, reaching 600,000 certified movements each year – a number unmatched by any other company. Due to the high proportion of gold watches, Rolex, using about 13 tons of gold annually, is also the largest consumer of gold in Switzerland.
Rolex is one of the seven companies with annual watch sales exceeding 1 billion Swiss francs in recent years among independent companies, alongside Audemars Piguet and Patek Philippe.
Initially, the movement was housed in a smooth, polished triple-case "Savonnette" watch of the so-called "English style" (a wide, rounded profile with small protrusions, a massive neck, and a large round crown), which was considered the most practical and fashionable shape for men's watches for several decades.
The case was custom-made for Rolex by the largest English watch case manufacturer, Dennison Watch Case Co Ltd, based in Birmingham. Rolex had a long and fruitful collaboration with Dennison. Moreover, the majority of steel, gold, or silver cases for Rolex pocket watches were produced by this company.
The inner side of the back cover is stamped with the manufacturer's name and one of its trademarks – STAR. This trademark was registered with the Federal Office of Intellectual Property in Switzerland under the name Dennison Watch Case Company Limited in October 1920 with the number 47945.
The case is made using the technique known as "gold filled" or gold plating, which differs from traditional gold plating in that it involves a thicker layer of precious metal. This results in greater resistance to wear and increased durability of the coating. The blank plates are composed of a composite material where gold sheets are attached to a base of a simple metal such as nickel or brass through diffusion under the influence of temperature and pressure.
The Dennison Watch Case Company produced three grades of gold-filled cases: Sun, Moon, and Star. The Star grade featured a 9-karat gold outer layer with a guarantee of wear for 10 years. The inner part of the case, which was less exposed to wear, was coated with a thinner layer of gold to ensure additional cost-effectiveness.
Dennison Watch Case Company owes its existence to Aaron Lufkin Dennison (1812-1895). Born in America, Dennison began his innovative career in the watchmaking industry by founding the Waltham Watch Company with two colleagues. Over time, the company grew to become the largest watch producer in the United States.
In 1863, the talented watchmaker moved to Zurich, Switzerland, as he discovered that the Swiss were more advanced in the production of watch components. He joined the Tremont Watch Company, leading its manufacturing operations, and played a role in the creation of the International Watch Company (IWC).
In 1871, Dennison moved to England and after a short stay in London, settled in Birmingham. There, he found a niche in the market for high-quality watch cases and began producing them in large quantities. He patented numerous designs for dust- and waterproof cases.
Aaron Dennison transformed luxury items into everyday necessities. In 1850, average pocket watches cost $40, but by 1878, Dennison watches without adornments cost only $3.50. Dennison, Wigley & Company, which originated from a small workshop in the side part of a family home, grew to produce 100,000 high-quality watch cases annually by 1885. In 1892, the firm introduced Europe's first watch cases with rolled and filled gold.
Aaron Dennison transformed luxury items into everyday necessities. In 1850, average pocket watches cost $40, but by 1878, Dennison watches without adornments cost only $3.50. Dennison, Wigley & Company, which originated from a small workshop in the side part of a family home, grew to produce 100,000 high-quality watch cases annually by 1885. In 1892, the firm introduced Europe's first watch cases with rolled and filled gold.
Aaron Lufkin Dennison passed away in 1895, but he left behind a worthy successor in his son, Franklin Dennison. The Dennison Watch Case Co. Ltd. was founded in 1905 by Franklin Dennison and his son, Major Gilbert Dennison, after acquiring Alfred Wigley's share in Dennison, Wigley & Company.
Over the next 60 years, the company grew to become the largest watch company in England and gained worldwide fame thanks to its high 'Dennison Quality' (DQ). Despite this success, the memory of the great founder was never forgotten: almost all Dennison products bore the hallmark 'A.L.D'.
As known, Rolex SA ordered movements for their watches from external manufacturers such as Aegler, Cortebert, Thommens Uhrenfabrik AG, and others. In this case, we are dealing with a movement produced by Fabrique d'Horlogerie de Montilier.
The Watchmaking Art Factory of Montilier (village of Montilier, near Murten) was founded in 1852 by Etienne-Ovide Domon (1807-1873). Starting in 1815, he embarked on an extensive journey across Switzerland and Europe, where he studied engraving, drawing, mechanics, and the art of watchmaking. He worked as a gunsmith in Le Havre and as a craftsman in Paris (1830-1844), where he applied his mechanical inventions and artistic talents.
Upon returning to Switzerland, Domon opened his watchmaking workshops in La Chaux-de-Fonds (1845) and Neuchâtel (1849), then settled in Murten (1852), where he established a factory for producing watch cases. The factory, which employed over 200 workers, was relocated to Montilier in 1856. From then on, the company ceased making complete watches and focused exclusively on producing movements. The quality of their products ranged from average to high.
Upon returning to Switzerland, Domon opened his watchmaking workshops in La Chaux-de-Fonds (1845) and Neuchâtel (1849), then settled in Murten (1852), where he established a factory for producing watch cases. The factory, which employed over 200 workers, was relocated to Montilier in 1856. From then on, the company ceased making complete watches and focused exclusively on producing movements. The quality of their products ranged from average to high.
In 1860, collaboration began with Constant Dinichert (Costant Dinichert, 1832-1916), leading to numerous technical innovations. After training in watchmaking in La Chaux-de-Fonds, Dinichert worked as a fitter at Domon's watch case factory in Murten starting in 1853. By 1859, he became Domon's partner, and from 1861, he managed sales. Later, he became the director of the watch factory in Montilier.
In addition to domestic sales, the Fabrique d'Horlogerie de Montilier also exported its products to Germany, the Benelux countries, Scandinavia, America, and British colonies. Around 1868, a branch for processing silver and aluminum-bronze cases was established in Biel.
In the early 1870s, the factory focused on producing technically advanced products. Constant Dinichert became the sole owner of the factory. In 1878, the manufacture received its first award, a bronze medal, at the World Exhibition in Paris. By around 1880, the company employed 300 workers, with an annual production of 40,000 watches.
In addition to domestic sales, the Fabrique d'Horlogerie de Montilier also exported its products to Germany, the Benelux countries, Scandinavia, America, and British colonies. Around 1868, a branch for processing silver and aluminum-bronze cases was established in Biel.
In the early 1870s, the factory focused on producing technically advanced products. Constant Dinichert became the sole owner of the factory. In 1878, the manufacture received its first award, a bronze medal, at the World Exhibition in Paris. By around 1880, the company employed 300 workers, with an annual production of 40,000 watches.
In 1881, the company won a silver medal at the National Watch Exhibition in La Chaux-de-Fonds, followed by awards in Paris in 1889, Liège in 1930, and Brussels in 1935.
In 1904, the company passed to Constant Dinichert Jr. (Costant Dinichert fils, 1862-1940). By the early 1930s, the firm faced a serious crisis and to save production, it was forced to join Union Horlogère Alpina. In 1936, the factory underwent reconstruction and was thereafter known as Montilier Watch Co. S.A. It regained prosperity but by 1952, decline set in. The company celebrated its 100th anniversary but could no longer keep pace with developments, falling behind its competitors.
Montilier Watch Co. S.A. was liquidated in 1962. The building changed hands several times afterward, with various companies attempting to open shops there unsuccessfully. In 1963, a fire destroyed the office space with the characteristic clock tower. By late 1977, the factory ceased all production. In 1980, the old factory building was demolished, and the present-day residential area, Markup, was constructed.
The mechanism used in this project is the Montilier 664 caliber with cut-out bridges. In the 1920s-1930s, Rolex actively utilized this caliber in their pocket watches.
The mechanism used in this project is the Montilier 664 caliber with cut-out bridges. In the 1920s-1930s, Rolex actively utilized this caliber in their pocket watches.
In the designation of the caliber, the digits "64" denote the caliber of the mechanism itself, while the digit "6" indicates the configuration variant of the bridges.
This design of the caliber was officially registered by Société Suisse d'Horlogerie, Fabrique de Montilier among others at the Swiss Federal Institute of Intellectual Property on the last day of 1928 under number 43717 (№ 280).
In the illustration from the 1930 catalog below, as well as in the excerpt above, the Montilier caliber 663 is depicted. Calibers 63 and 64 are identical, but the 63rd is in Lépine execution, and the 64th is in Savonnette execution. Thus, they differ only in the positioning of the stem (and consequently the barrel) and the seconds hand. Just compare.
Technical characteristics of the mechanism:
- Caliber: Montilier caliber 664
- Total diameter: 38.35 mm (17''')
- Jewel count: 15
- Oscillation frequency: 18,000 vibrations per hour (2.5 Hz)
- Power reserve: 35 hours
- Winding type: Manual
The escapement mechanism:
- Swiss lever escapement with straight line lever escapement
- Blackened balance spring with Breguet overcoil
- Cut bimetallic temperature-compensated balance with a two-arm balance bridge, 4 compensating and 12 regulating screws
Manufacturer: Fabrique d'Horlogerie de Montilier
Production Year: 1925-1926
Mechanism Type: Anchor escapement, Savonnette
Materials: Brass, nickel-plated, steel
Functions:
- Hours
- Minutes
- Subsidiary seconds dial at the 6 o'clock position
Features:
- Manual winding and time setting via the crown
- Precise regulation in three positions for all climate conditions
The finish quality includes:
- Fine finishing
- Nickel plating
- Circular graining using pearlage technique
- All bridges with chamfered edges
- All steel parts polished and chamfered
Country of Manufacture: Switzerland
It looks like you're describing a highly esteemed mechanism with a rich history from the respected Swiss watch factory, Fabrique d'Horlogerie de Montilier, and the equally rich history of Rolex as the seller. Given Rolex's stringent quality requirements, there's no doubt about the excellence of this chosen mechanism.
After determining the mechanism and taking precise measurements of its dimensions, we proceeded to create a draft of the dial for the future watch.
Our designer utilized a template from previous similar projects, but adjustments were necessary to accommodate the root system of the genealogical tree, as the projection for the axis hole of the subsidiary seconds hand coincided with one of the roots.
This time, on the mighty oak symbolizing the strength of genealogical connections and the fortitude of family ties, shields with the names of members of one family—parents and their five children—are placed. Red dots on the sketch mark the spots for soldering the feet of the dial. We strictly adhere to only this method of attaching the dial to the mechanism as the most reliable and time-tested, categorically rejecting the use of glue or double-sided tape.
After approval of the sketch by the client, a dial mock-up was created. Together with a 1.0 mm thick 925 sterling silver sheet, it was sent to a specialist for laser cutting and engraving.
After laser processing, the dial undergoes mandatory manual refinement and polishing.
Meanwhile, the client has finalized the shape of the watch case. It will be a classic round case with two transparent covers, fitted with sapphire crystals, and straight rounded lugs.
The blueprint of the future case was handed over to the modeler, who used a 3D printer to create a model of the components from special blue milling wax. This wax, known for its rigidity, is suitable for intricate detailing and creating complex elements. Such a wax model is referred to as a "wax-up" and serves as a link between the product concept and its practical realization.
Wax-ups were handed over to the jeweler-caster. Before casting, the models are attached to a wax rod. After soldering, the wax model is immersed in a ceramic suspension and coated with special powder.
When the shell hardens, the base is heated, melting the wax and allowing it to flow out, leaving voids inside the ceramic that replicate the shape of the future items. This process is known as wax burnout or wax elimination.
Note: the crown tube for the winding stem in this piece will also be cast. After wax removal, they proceed with shaping to give it the required strength and prepare it for the next step—casting the metal. In our case, it will be brass alloy.
The ceramic mold is filled with molten metal and left to solidify. Afterward, the mold is dismantled to extract the base. Each piece is separated from the rod, and the finishing phase begins—grinding and polishing.
Simultaneously, the watchmaker disassembled the mechanism, conducted diagnostics, and cleaned it in an ultrasonic bath, removing accumulated dirt and old lubricants. The prepared mechanism was then sent to the jeweler-engraver for skeletonization and engraving work.
Simultaneously, the watchmaker disassembled the mechanism, conducted diagnostics, and cleaned it in an ultrasonic bath, removing accumulated dirt and old lubricants. The prepared mechanism was then sent to the jeweler-engraver for skeletonization and engraving work.
The main plate was partially skeletonized, revealing some hidden details of the mechanism and gear wheels. The cut-outs and engravings on the plate mirror the main elements of the central figure of the dial - a sprawling oak tree with a robust root system.
On the bridges of the mechanism, relief, highly realistic oak leaves and acorns are engraved, echoing the pattern on the outer ring of the dial. The textured background on the back is stylized in a pearled technique.
All original inscriptions on the mechanism have been preserved and incorporated as plaques into the new design. As always, all work was carried out by the engraver manually using burins.
After manual refinement, grinding, and polishing, certain areas of the dial were coated with yellow and red gold, white, and black rhodium using electroplating. This allowed highlighting the necessary elements of the composition and making the dial more contrasted and visually intriguing.
After manual refinement, grinding, and polishing, certain areas of the dial were coated with yellow and red gold, white, and black rhodium using electroplating. This allowed highlighting the necessary elements of the composition and making the dial more contrasted and visually intriguing.
The minimalist style of the hour markers, featuring only Arabic numerals at 3, 6, 9, and 12 o'clock, and the absence of minute and second markings, is driven by the overall project concept: time should not overshadow true family values.
After completing the engraving and polishing of the mechanism, it was coated with a layer of yellow gold using electroplating. Subsequently, red gold was applied to the oak leaves using an electroplating pencil to highlight them against the background. The oak leaves on the dial were also coated with red gold, creating a unified design element that ties together the front and back of the watch.
After completing the engraving and polishing of the mechanism, it was coated with a layer of yellow gold using electroplating. Subsequently, red gold was applied to the oak leaves using an electroplating pencil to highlight them against the background. The oak leaves on the dial were also coated with red gold, creating a unified design element that ties together the front and back of the watch.
The brass watch case was also coated with a layer of high-quality 14-karat gold plating, applied using electroplating methods, ensuring durability without signs of wear over time.
It was time for the watch assembly. The master watchmaker assembled, serviced, and adjusted the mechanism. Next, the dial was installed and securely fixed onto it within the case. The decision was made, in agreement with the client, to retain the original hands—classic "Spade & Whip" style hands with dark blue coloring—and the elegant slender subsidiary seconds hand with a long counterweight. The only modification was polishing them (as 100 years had naturally aged them) and reapplying the blue coloring after heating them to the required temperature.
It was time for the watch assembly. The master watchmaker assembled, serviced, and adjusted the mechanism. Next, the dial was installed and securely fixed onto it within the case. The decision was made, in agreement with the client, to retain the original hands—classic "Spade & Whip" style hands with dark blue coloring—and the elegant slender subsidiary seconds hand with a long counterweight. The only modification was polishing them (as 100 years had naturally aged them) and reapplying the blue coloring after heating them to the required temperature.
The watch features a substantial fluted trapezoidal crown designed to facilitate winding the powerful mainspring of the pocket watch mechanism. Engraved on the end of the crown is the Rolex logo—a famous five-pointed crown.
Several premium-class strap options made from exotic leather were offered to the client. They chose a dark purple alligator leather strap, which was also installed on the watch.
Several premium-class strap options made from exotic leather were offered to the client. They chose a dark purple alligator leather strap, which was also installed on the watch.
All watches manufactured at Patina Watch Studio undergo mandatory accuracy and duration testing, as well as quality checks according to strict standards developed in our workshop.
During testing on a timing machine, the watches demonstrated a fairly decent accuracy result for a century-old mechanism. Deviation in different positions ranged up to -40 seconds per day with a power reserve exceeding 24 hours.
During testing on a timing machine, the watches demonstrated a fairly decent accuracy result for a century-old mechanism. Deviation in different positions ranged up to -40 seconds per day with a power reserve exceeding 24 hours.
It seems there were some challenges with the watch during inspection, including corrosion on the mechanism's wheels, flaws in the galvanic decoration of the mechanism and dial, and micro-scratches on the case. After these issues were rectified by authorized personnel, the inspection report was signed, and the watches were ready for delivery to the client.
At the last moment, the client expressed a desire to order another interchangeable strap for their watch. This second strap, also handcrafted by our master, was made from noble brown alligator leather, stitched with linen waxed thread in saddle stitch style.
At the last moment, the client expressed a desire to order another interchangeable strap for their watch. This second strap, also handcrafted by our master, was made from noble brown alligator leather, stitched with linen waxed thread in saddle stitch style.
This project has been completed. The client was pleased, and our team once again found satisfaction in our work, successfully creating a piece that fully met the client's expectations.
Our craftsmen have crafted a unique piece of fine watchmaking art, produced in a single edition, embodying all the client's desires.
Our craftsmen have crafted a unique piece of fine watchmaking art, produced in a single edition, embodying all the client's desires.
The finest jewelry craftsmanship combined with the unparalleled quality of the Rolex mechanism allows us to assert: this is a unique piece of art, and there are no others like it in existence. The transparent case back of the watch provides the opportunity to admire the engraver's artistry and to observe the captivating workings of the mechanics, marking the passage of time.
Certainly, such watches will not go unnoticed on the wrist and will attract admiring glances, emphasizing the individuality, style, and taste of their owner.
If you've been inspired by our 'Family Tree' and want to create your own family heirloom, something to be passed down through generations, Patina Watch Studio is here for you.
We create watches based on antique and modern mechanisms from well-known Swiss, German, and American manufacturers, including Vacheron Constantin, Patek Philippe, Ulysse Nardin, LeCoultre, Piaget, Rolex, ETA, Zenith, Longines, Omega, A. Lange & Söhne, Hamilton, Elgin, Howard, and many others. Our studio offers a wide range of designs and styles. Whether you prefer classic elegance, modern trends, or unique bespoke creations, our workshop allows you to bring any idea to life. From everyday models to formal dress watches or luxurious men's skeletonized timepieces with diamonds, our creations are designed to captivate and inspire admiration.
At Patina Watch Studio, you can always order custom-made watches tailored to your preferences or explore our ready-made designs by visiting the relevant section on our website.
In today's modern world, where time is one of the most valuable resources, watches play a crucial role in everyone's life. They not only help keep track of time but also serve as stylish accessories that reflect their owner's tastes and preferences. That's why our watchmaking studio offers a unique service – creating watches based on your ideas.
In today's modern world, where time is one of the most valuable resources, watches play a crucial role in everyone's life. They not only help keep track of time but also serve as stylish accessories that reflect their owner's tastes and preferences. That's why our watchmaking studio offers a unique service – creating watches based on your ideas.
The main thing that sets our studio apart from competitors is our personalized approach to each client. We understand that watches are not just timekeeping devices but reflections of the owner's personality and taste. That's why we carefully listen to all our customers' wishes to create perfect watches that meet all their requirements. They become part of our team and can consider themselves full-fledged co-authors of the final product.
Our studio employs only experienced craftsmen who master all the intricacies of watchmaking and jewelry art. They meticulously work on every detail, from concept development and design to mechanism assembly. We use only high-quality materials to ensure your watches serve you for many years and delight with their impeccable appearance.
We pay special attention to details, allowing us to create truly unique watches that reflect your personality or tell the story of significant events in your life.
We take pride in the fact that every client receives not just a watch but a genuine work of art. Our craftsmen put their heart into each piece so that you can enjoy its beauty and reliability. We are confident that our watches will not only be an accessory but also a part of your life, highlighting your uniqueness and individuality.
Let's create your perfect watches together!
Our studio employs only experienced craftsmen who master all the intricacies of watchmaking and jewelry art. They meticulously work on every detail, from concept development and design to mechanism assembly. We use only high-quality materials to ensure your watches serve you for many years and delight with their impeccable appearance.
We pay special attention to details, allowing us to create truly unique watches that reflect your personality or tell the story of significant events in your life.
We take pride in the fact that every client receives not just a watch but a genuine work of art. Our craftsmen put their heart into each piece so that you can enjoy its beauty and reliability. We are confident that our watches will not only be an accessory but also a part of your life, highlighting your uniqueness and individuality.
Let's create your perfect watches together!
