Emerald - Rolex 1957

"Emerald Madness" continues! The watch design, featuring a combination of golden and deep green hues, embodied by our craftsmen in one of our previous projects titled "EMERALD PIAGET," has been highly appreciated by our clients.
EMERALD ROLEX
One of them, upon seeing the photo of the mentioned watches, exclaimed, "I want the same!" "No problem!" we replied, and to start with, we offered him a choice of several suitable Swiss movements. He settled on the caliber 1600 movement from the renowned Swiss watch brand Rolex, exclusively designed for models of their famous Rolex Cellini line and produced between 1964 and 1974.

Rolex is a brand synonymous with luxury, craftsmanship, and innovation. Buying a Rolex means joining the elite club of chosen owners of this marvel of engineering encased in exquisite jewelry. The cost of Rolex speaks for itself. Even vintage models are always in demand at various international auctions.

So, the beginning was made. The project started in early January 2024. Jumping ahead, it was completed in less than two months, on the last day of February 2024 – quite tight deadlines for a watch project, wouldn't you agree?

After selecting the movement, work traditionally begins on designing the dial. In this case, we relied on a project already implemented. But simply repeating what has already been done is not what our workshop is about. Therefore, our artist made some changes to the existing layout: the width of the dial ring was increased, minute markings resembling a "railroad track" were added along its outer edge, and instead of the "XII" hour marker, the famous Rolex SA logo in the form of a five-pointed crown, first registered by the company as a trademark in 1925, was placed.

The brand name "ROLEX" is applied on the horizontal bar connecting the "III" hour marker with the center of the dial. The outer diameter of the dial ring is 31.8 mm, the inner diameter is 20.4 mm, and the visible diameter is 30.0 mm. The dial is relief and two-level.
A few words are necessary about the movement. The Rolex Cellini collection is named after the famous Italian jeweler and sculptor Benvenuto Cellini. The name was chosen for the collection of exquisite dress watches by Rolex, often adorned with precious stones, as a means to emphasize the elegance of lines and the impeccable craftsmanship of the artist's work.

Especially for this watch line, a miniature ultra-thin movement was developed (with a thickness of only 2.32 mm) with an increased balance oscillation frequency and a sleek, minimalist design. Its precision and reliability are complemented by the perfection of decorative finishing, while technical excellence is ensured by the use of the most advanced materials and technical solutions, including the progressive non-split monometallic balance with two adjustable weights and shock-absorbing devices for the balance staffs and anchor wheel system from the Swiss company Parechoc S.A. This system was used in the movements of practically all the most famous watch brands, including ETA, FHF, LeCoultre, Longines, Omega, Patek Philippe, Piguet, Valjoux, and many others.
As a rule, we complement our projects with a historical background containing detailed technical information about the caliber of the movement used, supported by excerpts from catalogs and various publications, as well as information from the history of the manufacturer company. If desired, you can always turn to us with a request for such a report or for information about the manufacturer of your watch, and our enthusiast-researcher will try to assist you.

Since the case project was already completed by us (let's recall that we did this in our previous project, "EMERALD PIAGET"), we made wax models of all the elements of this model, added buckle details and the winding crown, and sent them to the jeweler-caster for work. After some time, we received from him a set like this. According to the approved technical specification, the case, caseback, and winding crown were made of 585-grade gold.
By the way, if you're interested, we use only high-quality bank gold of the highest grade to make cases and other parts. For example, in this project, we used, among other things, ingots shown in the photo below. For reference: the total weight of 585-grade gold in this product, including the loss, was 45.59 grams.
Simultaneously with casting the case, our other craftsmen were engaged in transforming the movement. The watchmaker disassembled it into its components, cleaned and washed them. Then the jeweler-engraver began the skeletonization and engraving of the main plate and bridges. As already mentioned, the thickness of the movement is 2.32 mm, so the bridges and plates also have minimal thickness, which limits the depth of engraving to literal fractions of millimeters and requires the master's precision and accuracy of movements. Trust me, this is very meticulous work, fraught with many difficulties and risks. But our craftsmen have tremendous experience in this field and are confident in their abilities.

Evidence of this is the presented work – without exaggeration, an example of high jewelry art. The movement's platinum was skeletonized and adorned with baroque-style vegetal ornamentation. Holes for gemstone settings and other technological openings are shaped like flowers.

Due to the small thickness of the parts, it was decided to refrain from skeletonizing the bridges – such intervention could lead to a disruption of the geometry and strength characteristics of the parts and, as a result, to the loss of the mechanism's functionality and damage to the watch. Therefore, they were subjected to gentle engraving while preserving the original inscriptions.
After all the engraving and polishing work was completed, the movement was coated with a new high-quality gold plating applied by electroplating. Fortunately, the condition of the movement was good; all its steel parts were free of corrosion and did not require any special treatment or grinding – we simply polished them lightly and adjusted the screw slots slightly to give the product a finished look. The factory "sunburst" texture (French – Le Soleillage) on the winding wheels was perfectly preserved.

For comparison, images of the movement "before" and "after" transformation are displayed in the photos above.

Let's return to the case. As is known, after casting, parts always have an unattractive appearance (matte surface, casting marks), so the next step is manual finishing, engraving, grinding, and polishing. Our jeweler-engraver performed the necessary work, and the case was transformed. Vegetal elements are placed on the case edges (especially impressive are the detailed veins on the leaves and the background surface treatment technique, imitating grain), while geometric patterns adorn the lugs and the side surface of the case.
We would like to emphasize once again that all engraving work is carried out by our craftsmen exclusively by hand using gravers – no stamping or CNC machines!

Following the approved design, the dial and the back decorative insert were manufactured. Initially, rings of the necessary sizes were cut from a brass plate. Subsequently, the dial blank was sent for laser engraving, while the decorative insert once again found its way into the capable hands of our engraver, who manually executed the cutting of the vegetal ornamentation.
The dial and the decorative insert turned out to be two-tiered, with a lowered background, relief hour markers, and ornamentation. After soldering the feet onto the dial and insert, the enamel artist applied the emerald-colored epoxy enamel, which we had previously tested, while the relief elements were covered with 14-carat gold plating. Then, for contrast and better readability, the master filled the minute markings of the dial with black enamel.

The result we obtained was quite satisfactory: everything looks vibrant, rich, and luxurious. Exactly as we planned it to be)))
At this stage, after completing all intermediate operations and polishing the case, the mechanism, dial, and winding crown are usually fitted. Since the case diameter significantly exceeds the diameter of the movement, a spacer ring made of brass was fabricated to install the movement. This ring is securely fastened inside the watch case with screws, and the movement is then mounted onto it. The dial is attached to the mentioned ring using feet, while the back decorative insert is secured to it with screws. Needless to say, the width of the dial and insert rings is designed to overlap the spacer ring.
After fitting, if necessary, adjustments and fine-tuning of the parts are made to ensure perfect compatibility. In this case, there was a mismatch between the central hole of the dial and the diameter of the hour hand pinion. We slightly enlarged the hole and adjusted the pinion, after which we rechecked everything and, once we were sure the problem was resolved, continued.

Initially, we installed classic gold-plated "Breguet" style hands on the watch. However, it was generally agreed that they were overshadowed by the movement and were practically unreadable. Therefore, we decided to paint them black, and for better visibility in low-light conditions, we filled the holes in the hands' tips with luminescent material.

After final checks and adjustments, the watchmaker began the assembly. The movement was serviced, lubricated, and regulated. The dial, decorative insert, hands, and winding crown were installed.

Once sapphire crystals, resistant to scratches, were fitted onto the front and back covers, they were closed onto the case. In this state, one could already appreciate the volume and quality of the work done.
To ensure the correctness of the assembly and adjustment of the watch, we tested them on a timing machine for accuracy and duration of operation.
During the testing on the device, the assembled watch displayed excellent accuracy ranging from +7 to +14 seconds per day in various positions, with a power reserve of over 24 hours.

The final touch, completing and harmonizing the overall picture, was the two-layered premium-class strap perfectly matched to the dial tone. The strap was handmade and stitched with green linen thread using saddle stitching. The top layer is crocodile leather, while the bottom layer is an anti-allergenic lining made of natural cowhide in a flesh tone. The gold buckle of the strap also features an engraving of vegetal ornamentation.
As always, before sending to the client, all our products undergo thorough triple quality control to ensure compliance with the technical specifications and the absence of any visible or hidden defects. Any identified shortcomings are addressed if necessary. Only after this process are the watches sent to their happy owner.
We invite you to admire the achieved result and once again appreciate the highest level of our craftsmen. Please note that the crown image of Rolex is engraved on the winding crown and the strap buckle, just like on the dial. Thus, the recognizable logo of the renowned watch house serves as the unifying element of the entire product.

Upon closer inspection of the case and the watch mechanism, it's impossible not to compliment our engravers. The impeccable lines and skillful composition demonstrate the perfect high-artistry work utilizing various engraving techniques! We designed the case to be substantial enough, allowing us to achieve such significant depth in the engraved areas.
We believe that the resulting timepiece, at the very least, is on par with the original models from the Rolex Cellini collection, and considering the fact that they are produced as a one-of-a-kind piece, they even surpass them in exclusivity.

Undoubtedly, you can order a Rolex directly from the manufacturer, but in that case, you would receive a standard mass-market product. Moreover, the cost of a Rolex in watch boutiques may be considered "unaffordable" for many.
The project is completed. Another vintage mechanism has found its second life in luxurious men's skeletonized watches. Agreeably, in a world where technology rapidly advances, mechanical wristwatches remain not only timekeeping devices but also embodiments of art, style, and individuality.

Creating watches is a process that requires not only technical mastery but also creative thinking. Each project starts with an idea, which then transforms into a concept, design, and finally into a tangible object.
Every stage of watchmaking demands not only time and effort but also a piece of the master's soul. Indeed, the moment of completing a project is always a moment of creative triumph. It's the moment when ideas and concepts become reality, when every detail finds its place, creating harmony and beauty.
If you're interested in the opportunity to own unique watches created according to your idea and with your direct involvement, our workshop is at your service. You can become a co-author of a custom-designed piece that reflects your tastes, preferences, and passions, telling others about them.

You'll have the chance to bring your own perspective on the world, fashion, and style to life, with the high quality of execution guaranteed by our experienced masters. Let's together realize your dream project, embodying your boldest fantasies in it!

In our workshop, you can order both men's and women's wristwatches, created based on mechanisms from the most famous and respected Swiss brands such as Patek Philippe, Vacheron Constantin, Jaeger-LeCoultre, IWC, Ulysse Nardin, Omega, Longines, and others. Contact us, and we'll help you create exclusive timepieces that no one else will have.

We are ready to hear from you, while the rest of the world listens only to the voice of brands.