CHRONOMETRO GONDOLO - Patek Philippe
Today, we invite you to trace the stages of reincarnation of pocket watches from the renowned Swiss watch manufacturer Patek Philippe, exclusively produced for the famous Brazilian watch and jewelry house Gondolo & Labouriau from Rio de Janeiro, into wristwatches in a new modern case.
CHRONOMETRO GONDOLO
Patek Philippe
Patek Philippe
Since 1839, Patek Philippe has been continuously evolving and enriching the traditions of Geneva's watchmaking art. Today, Patek Philippe stands as the last remaining independent family-owned watchmaking manufacture in Geneva.
The collaboration between Patek Philippe & Cie and Gondolo & Labouriau began in 1872 and lasted until 1935. This collaboration literally "exploded" the South American market at that time. The retailer Gondolo & Labouriau thrived at the turn of the 19th and 20th centuries when Rio de Janeiro was the capital of the Brazilian Empire and rivaled Paris as one of the most beautiful cities in the world. The Italian-French partnership brought Patek Philippe to fame across the entire South American continent. At the height of its development, Gondolo & Labouriau was probably the most profitable watch retailer in the world, accounting for no less than a third of Patek Philippe's annual turnover.
The collaboration between Patek Philippe & Cie and Gondolo & Labouriau began in 1872 and lasted until 1935. This collaboration literally "exploded" the South American market at that time. The retailer Gondolo & Labouriau thrived at the turn of the 19th and 20th centuries when Rio de Janeiro was the capital of the Brazilian Empire and rivaled Paris as one of the most beautiful cities in the world. The Italian-French partnership brought Patek Philippe to fame across the entire South American continent. At the height of its development, Gondolo & Labouriau was probably the most profitable watch retailer in the world, accounting for no less than a third of Patek Philippe's annual turnover.
Members of the "Gondolo Gang" proudly display their membership in the club of Patek Philippe pocket watch buyers. However, after a prolonged international financial and social crisis, its collapse almost led Patek Philippe into the abyss, if not for the timely acquisition of the company by the Stern family in 1932.
So, in our hands, we have a magnificent example of genuine Swiss watchmaking art from the renowned manufacture: a vintage Patek Philippe, men's pocket watches in an 18-carat gold case with a 20-line movement, on the dust cover of which is engraved the inscription Fabricado expressamente para Gondolo & Labouriau Relojoeiros – RIO DE JANEIRO (Portuguese – Made expressly for the watchmakers Gondolo & Labouriau – Rio de Janeiro).
So, in our hands, we have a magnificent example of genuine Swiss watchmaking art from the renowned manufacture: a vintage Patek Philippe, men's pocket watches in an 18-carat gold case with a 20-line movement, on the dust cover of which is engraved the inscription Fabricado expressamente para Gondolo & Labouriau Relojoeiros – RIO DE JANEIRO (Portuguese – Made expressly for the watchmakers Gondolo & Labouriau – Rio de Janeiro).
Our client specifically chose these watches for their rich history and expressed a desire to transform them into wristwatches. For our workshop, there's almost nothing that's impossible, so we happily agreed to assist.
Certainly, one could purchase a Patek Philippe directly from the manufacturer, but in doing so, you'd receive a standard mass-market product. Moreover, the cost of Patek Philippe watches in retail boutiques may be prohibitive for many.
To begin, our artist developed and presented several dial designs for the client's consideration. They selected a design featuring a blue dial. The subsidiary seconds dial is positioned at "9 o'clock" and features a railroad-style second track along its outer edge, with the inscription CHRONOMETRO GONDOLO. At the top of the dial, below the "12 o'clock" marker, a rectangular plaque displays the manufacturer's name. A minimalist hash-mark minute track lines the outer edge of the dial. The hour markers are octagonal, with diamonds set within each. Below the "6 o'clock" marker, the inscription ANTIQUE CALIBER is placed.
Certainly, one could purchase a Patek Philippe directly from the manufacturer, but in doing so, you'd receive a standard mass-market product. Moreover, the cost of Patek Philippe watches in retail boutiques may be prohibitive for many.
To begin, our artist developed and presented several dial designs for the client's consideration. They selected a design featuring a blue dial. The subsidiary seconds dial is positioned at "9 o'clock" and features a railroad-style second track along its outer edge, with the inscription CHRONOMETRO GONDOLO. At the top of the dial, below the "12 o'clock" marker, a rectangular plaque displays the manufacturer's name. A minimalist hash-mark minute track lines the outer edge of the dial. The hour markers are octagonal, with diamonds set within each. Below the "6 o'clock" marker, the inscription ANTIQUE CALIBER is placed.
After the dial design was approved, a technical specification and preliminary project estimate were prepared and approved. The client made an advance payment, and we commenced work on the project.
The main requirements of the technical specification were as follows:
- Mechanism produced by Patek Philippe.
- Dial made of 925 sterling silver with enamel overlay.
- Case made of 18-karat gold, approximately 50 mm in diameter. Double glazing, sapphire crystals.
- Crown made of 18-karat gold with engraving of the Patek Philippe emblem.
- Premium-grade genuine leather strap with a gold butterfly clasp.
Based on the gathered data, our design engineer created a 3-D model of the case and winding crown. Despite the seeming simplicity of the task, this stage always involves a multitude of nuances: the width of the gap between the lugs (i.e., the width of the future strap), their shape and dimensions, the diameter of the winding crown, the width of the case sides, the seating diameter for the crystals, and much more...
After careful consideration of all the details, it was decided that the case would be made of 18K yellow gold, with a diameter of 51.47 mm and a thickness of 11.95 mm without crystals. The width between the lugs would be 22.00 mm, and the diameter of the winding crown would be 8.44 mm.
As mentioned earlier, we opted to craft the dial from silver. To achieve this, we took a sheet of 925 sterling silver, cut out a circle of the required diameter, and sent it for laser engraving according to the approved design.
As mentioned earlier, we opted to craft the dial from silver. To achieve this, we took a sheet of 925 sterling silver, cut out a circle of the required diameter, and sent it for laser engraving according to the approved design.
After engraving, our master jeweler performed manual finishing on the dial and soldered on the feet. It's important to highlight this detail: all our dials are securely attached to the movement using feet or screws, no double-sided tape involved!
Simultaneously, gold parts for the case, winding crown, and butterfly clasp with the iconic Patek Philippe logo – the Calatrava cross – were cast by our goldsmith. The width of the clasp is 20.00 mm.
Simultaneously, gold parts for the case, winding crown, and butterfly clasp with the iconic Patek Philippe logo – the Calatrava cross – were cast by our goldsmith. The width of the clasp is 20.00 mm.
After casting, all parts underwent manual finishing, grinding, and polishing. The central part of the case, in addition to this, was machined on a lathe with the mechanism in place.
Meanwhile, the dial was sent to the enameler. Photo-polymeric enamel of deep blue color was applied to the recess made by laser engraving. Unable to resist, we tried the unfinished dial in the case. The result was fantastically beautiful!
Next, we gold-plated the exposed silver surfaces and blackened the inscription on the shield, which undoubtedly added extra elegance to the dial and connected it with the gold case. The final touch was the setting of eleven round-cut natural diamonds, each weighing 0.153 carats and measuring 1.5 mm in diameter, into the hour markers. The dial acquired a finished, noble, and luxurious appearance.
By the way, the authenticity of the stones is confirmed by the corresponding gemological certificate.
In the pocket watch, which served as the donor for the mechanism in our project, gold hour and minute hands of the "Poires Stuart" type (French for "Stuart Pears") and a dark blue oxidized second hand with a counterweight were installed. It was decided to retain the original gold hands, which perfectly complement our dial and case, and ensure an unchanged appearance for many years. To restore their shine, we polished them, removing any signs of aging.
As for the traditional second hand, we proposed replacing it with the Calatrava cross logo, and our client agreed. We crafted it from 585-carat yellow gold and also polished it.
As for the traditional second hand, we proposed replacing it with the Calatrava cross logo, and our client agreed. We crafted it from 585-carat yellow gold and also polished it.
Together, the dial and hands created a unique harmony of taste and style. And the Patek Philippe logo rotating around its axis not only added a distinctive touch to the watch but also served as a unifying element, bringing together all the components of the watch—the dial, case, and strap—into a cohesive ensemble.
Together, the dial and hands created a unique harmony of taste and style. And the Patek Philippe logo rotating around its axis not only added a distinctive touch to the watch but also served as a unifying element, bringing together all the components of the watch—the dial, case, and strap—into a cohesive ensemble.
Certainly, a few words need to be said about the movement. And there's much to say indeed.
The classic Patek Philippe & Co caliber, "Chronometro Gondolo," features the distinctive S-shaped central bridge. It boasts high-quality finishing, split bridges with beveling, bright clean jewels, polished screw heads, and a steel regulator with a swan-neck micrometric precision adjustment mechanism.
It's worth noting that this movement is rather unique compared to the typical Patek Philippe movements produced for the rest of the world. Carlo Gondolo, one of the founders of the Brazilian retailer Gondolo & Labouriau, decided that the watches offered by his company in South America should have additional unique features to stand out among those offered by other Patek Philippe retailers in Rio de Janeiro. He drew inspiration from the works of his late brother, Emilio Gondolo, who was particularly proud of his line of watches featuring wheel trains made of 9-carat gold instead of the usual brass. Carlo Gondolo approached Patek Philippe with a request to incorporate this option.
To be officially named "Chronometro Gondolo," there were two non-negotiable conditions: first, the movement had to be based on the design patented by Mr. Philippe in early 1891 in the USA, and second, the movement gears had to be made of 9-carat gold.
The latter requirement stemmed from the particular climate conditions in Brazil, especially in Rio de Janeiro, with its tropical humidity. The climate conditions were the initial reason for the request that Gondolo & Labouriau sent to Switzerland for their watch supplier in 1902—they wanted the watches to be more resistant to humidity. Thus, the legend was born, and Patek Philippe manufactured these special timepieces for their Brazilian clientele for a quarter of a century.
The barrel bridge bears the engraving of the manufacturer's name, "PATEK, PHILIPP & Co - GENÈVE," and the movement's serial number, No. 168796. According to official records, this number corresponds to the years of production between 1910 and 1915. In other words, this movement is over 100 years old!
Furthermore, the central bridge is engraved with the patent name, "PAT JAN 13, 1891"—this patent is for the design of the movement bridges, patented by Adrien Philippe on January 13, 1891, in the USA under No. 20483.
The classic Patek Philippe & Co caliber, "Chronometro Gondolo," features the distinctive S-shaped central bridge. It boasts high-quality finishing, split bridges with beveling, bright clean jewels, polished screw heads, and a steel regulator with a swan-neck micrometric precision adjustment mechanism.
It's worth noting that this movement is rather unique compared to the typical Patek Philippe movements produced for the rest of the world. Carlo Gondolo, one of the founders of the Brazilian retailer Gondolo & Labouriau, decided that the watches offered by his company in South America should have additional unique features to stand out among those offered by other Patek Philippe retailers in Rio de Janeiro. He drew inspiration from the works of his late brother, Emilio Gondolo, who was particularly proud of his line of watches featuring wheel trains made of 9-carat gold instead of the usual brass. Carlo Gondolo approached Patek Philippe with a request to incorporate this option.
To be officially named "Chronometro Gondolo," there were two non-negotiable conditions: first, the movement had to be based on the design patented by Mr. Philippe in early 1891 in the USA, and second, the movement gears had to be made of 9-carat gold.
The latter requirement stemmed from the particular climate conditions in Brazil, especially in Rio de Janeiro, with its tropical humidity. The climate conditions were the initial reason for the request that Gondolo & Labouriau sent to Switzerland for their watch supplier in 1902—they wanted the watches to be more resistant to humidity. Thus, the legend was born, and Patek Philippe manufactured these special timepieces for their Brazilian clientele for a quarter of a century.
The barrel bridge bears the engraving of the manufacturer's name, "PATEK, PHILIPP & Co - GENÈVE," and the movement's serial number, No. 168796. According to official records, this number corresponds to the years of production between 1910 and 1915. In other words, this movement is over 100 years old!
Furthermore, the central bridge is engraved with the patent name, "PAT JAN 13, 1891"—this patent is for the design of the movement bridges, patented by Adrien Philippe on January 13, 1891, in the USA under No. 20483.
Our client wanted the movement to remain in its untouched authentic state, without engraving or skeletonization. This approach has one undeniable advantage: at any time, the movement can be reinstalled back into the pocket case, without losing its value from both a historical and financial perspective. The only thing we allowed ourselves to do was to sandblast the movement bridges and refresh the gilding. Additionally, screw heads and other steel parts were polished.
As you already know from our previous publications, upon the client's request, our watches come with a historical certificate containing a detailed technical description of the movement, confirmation of its authenticity, and a brief history of the manufacturer. This project was no exception, and our client ordered such a document.
As you already know from our previous publications, upon the client's request, our watches come with a historical certificate containing a detailed technical description of the movement, confirmation of its authenticity, and a brief history of the manufacturer. This project was no exception, and our client ordered such a document.
When all the components of the watch were ready, they were sent to the watchmaker for assembly. The movement was assembled, lubricated, adjusted, and installed into the case. The dial was mounted and secured on the movement, and the hands were also placed in their rightful positions. Sapphire crystals were installed on the case, providing scratch resistance: the top one was spherical with a diameter of 44.5 mm, and the bottom one was flat with a diameter of 43.0 mm. The strap was assembled and attached to the case.
The double casing allows observing the work of the century-old mechanism, counting the fleeting time. Let's simply appreciate the result obtained and give credit to our craftsmen, who are not inferior to those abroad who once created antique timepieces.
The double casing allows observing the work of the century-old mechanism, counting the fleeting time. Let's simply appreciate the result obtained and give credit to our craftsmen, who are not inferior to those abroad who once created antique timepieces.
Thus ended our latest project. This time, there was no skeletonization involved, but the antique mechanism itself possesses a unique charm and aura, absorbing the emotions and essence of the watchmakers of the past.
All the client's wishes and ideas were brought to life. As a result, we have luxurious men's watches, the main "magnet" of which, in our opinion, is the unique dial that combines luxury and style. Such watches will undoubtedly not go unnoticed and will attract admiring glances.
We are inclined to believe that this piece would be a worthy addition to the Patek Philippe collection.
All the client's wishes and ideas were brought to life. As a result, we have luxurious men's watches, the main "magnet" of which, in our opinion, is the unique dial that combines luxury and style. Such watches will undoubtedly not go unnoticed and will attract admiring glances.
We are inclined to believe that this piece would be a worthy addition to the Patek Philippe collection.
If "CHRONOMETRO GONDOLO" has inspired you and you desire to own not only a functional accessory but also a genuine work of art that fully reflects your preferences and lifestyle, we are ready to assist you. Whether you prefer strict business watches from Patek Philippe, everyday timepieces, or even diamond-studded Patek watches like the one in this project.
Turning to our workshop will allow you to embody your unique symbols, significant events, or life philosophy into the timepiece, making it not just a utilitarian functional item but also a source of inspiration and joy every time you look at it.
Write your own story. We are ready to listen to you, while the rest of the world listens only to the voices of brands.
Turning to our workshop will allow you to embody your unique symbols, significant events, or life philosophy into the timepiece, making it not just a utilitarian functional item but also a source of inspiration and joy every time you look at it.
Write your own story. We are ready to listen to you, while the rest of the world listens only to the voices of brands.
