THEMIS Vacheron Constantin
Want to learn more about how we create the watch of your dreams? Then this story is for you!
Femida
Vacheron Constantin
Today we will tell you about an interesting project, the heart of which is the movement of Vacheron Constantin pocket watches from the 1920s. We named this project after the ancient Greek goddess of justice. Why exactly "Themis"? The answer is simple: the client who commissioned this project is a successful individual in the field of jurisprudence. And it is quite natural that he wished to see the figure of this character from Greek mythology on the dial of his watch.
This is an exclusive, customized project created with the direct involvement of the client. During its implementation, we took into account all the ideas and wishes of our client, one of which was the presence of engraving on the side surface of the watch case, which will be described below.
Next, we will talk about how the project progressed, what difficulties arose during its implementation, and which specific types of work and processes we used.
First of all, our artist created several sketches of the future watch dial, embodying the client's idea. Typically, we create around 5-7 sketches on average, make revisions, consult with the client, and only then approve the project, the details of which are documented in a technical specification. Then the project estimate is calculated. If the proposed option suits the client, they pay 30% of the cost as an advance payment, and our craftsmen begin work.
In this case, the client wanted the watches to be based on the mechanism of the renowned and oldest continuously operating Swiss watch manufacturer, Vacheron Constantin. Another condition was the diameter of the watch case - 45 mm.
We chose a classic three-piece round case with straight rounded lugs, made of medical-grade stainless steel type SAE 316L. It is equipped with two sapphire crystals, has a water resistance of 5 ATM (so-called "everyday water resistance"), and its caseback is secured with screws. The case is satin-finished, giving it a matte surface resistant to scratches.
As for the engraving on the case, it reads: "NON REX EST LEX, SED LEX EST REX". This is a well-known expression from Ancient Rome about the supremacy of law, which translates from Latin as "Not the king is law, but the law is king."
We had small-sized movements available, about 27 mm in diameter, for installation into the chosen case. However, to fit these movements into the case, we would have had to machine a special spacer ring to fill the gap and secure the movement in the case. But we decided against this for aesthetic reasons—it would have looked rather unpresentable.
However, much to our regret, for the same reason, the implementation of this project was somewhat delayed: we could not find a suitable movement... It was only at the watch exhibition in Eisenbach, Germany, that we finally managed to find and purchase the movement that we installed in this case. It fit perfectly—we only needed to slightly machine the case to accommodate the movement, and it fit like a glove.
According to commonly accepted records, the movement's serial number corresponds to around 1925, indicating that it is nearly a hundred years old!
The central jewel, the cap on the escape wheel bridge, 18 ruby jewels, the Maltese cross on the winding barrel, and the wolf tooth on the crown and barrel wheels—all these are indicators of a premium-class movement. Another indicator of its quality is that the movement underwent the maximum possible eight adjustments (for isochronism, cold, heat, and in five positions), as indicated by the inscription on the barrel bridge. This movement belongs to the "Grade No VIII" class, which is in the highest price segment.
For this movement, we commissioned a historical report from the renowned horological historian Dmitry Konovalov, detailing the caliber, its production date, its construction features and technical specifications, and providing a brief history of the Vacheron Constantin manufacture. The report is presented as a small booklet in a hardcover and is included with the watch.
The next step was to create the dial for our project. It is made of sterling silver (925 fineness). Initially, the design was finalized, ensuring mutual positioning and detailing of the composition elements. Subsequently, the silver plate underwent laser cutting and marking of the design. Afterward, legs were soldered onto the blank for mounting the dial onto the movement. It's worth noting that many dishonest or unqualified craftsmen often attach dials directly to the movement's plate using double-sided tape. However, we use mounting exclusively on legs.
And one more small but eloquent detail: the soldered legs precisely replicate the original "Vacheron-style" construction—they are hollow and have internal threading for fastening screws. This high-tech feature is a hallmark of the renowned manufacture, and we preserved and replicated it in our dial.
However, after soldering the legs, we encountered an unpleasant surprise—on the dial's front side, between the markers at 10 and 11 o'clock, as well as on the sword of Themis, a small spot appeared due to the elevated temperature during soldering. We were terribly disappointed, but the master engraver reassured us: "I will fix everything, the spot will disappear, and the appearance will not be compromised." And he did not disappoint us. Here is a photo of the dial after engraving: indeed, everything looks perfect!
So, after soldering the legs, the dial was handed over to the engraver for refinement and engraving. It is worth noting that all engraving work was done manually by the master using gravers, which is quite rare today in the age of laser engraving. Given the size of the composition, many fragments were engraved under a microscope. The highest level of craftsmanship, manifested in the precision of lines and the quality of detail work, is admirable and reminiscent of the works of unmatched masters of horological art from the past.
After completing all the engraving work on the dial, blackening was applied, which gave volume to the figure of Themis and also effectively shaded the details.
Next, we fitted the dial with the mechanism in the case and proceeded to choose the hands. Out of the two proposed options, the client chose classic "Spade & Whip" hands, dark-blue tempered, which contrast with the dial and mechanism, thus ensuring excellent readability.
Oh, we almost forgot to mention one important detail: after the project is approved by our team, a shared chat is created, where the coordinator shares photos and videos of each stage of its implementation.
But let's get back to the project. Next, the watchmaker completely disassembled the mechanism, cleaned it from old lubrication and centuries-old dirt, after which it was sent for engraving, as our client wanted a skeletonized look.
The engraver initially made sketches of the future patterns. One of his ideas was to carve the Maltese cross in platinum in place of the lateral second ring, which is the famous logo of Vacheron Constantin. The master also carved this same figure on the cover of the mainspring barrel.
The photo shows the mechanism after engraving. I remind you that all the work was done by the master manually, using a fret saw and chisels. Moreover, in this case, no laser marking is used - the engraver keeps the entire pattern in his mind and transfers it to the product. One can only admire the high-artistry jewelry work of the master, who managed to transform the initially flawless mechanism of the famous watch manufacture into a true work of art! Note that all the original inscriptions on the mechanism were preserved and integrated into the new design.
After that, the mechanism was sent for gilding, which was applied by electroplating. This was done to create contrast and visually separate the silver-colored dial from the mechanism. The gilding additionally emphasized all the elegance and beauty of the master's work. Believe me, such delicate, miniature, filigree work requires immense patience, precision of movements, and is incredibly labor-intensive.
The final stage of the project is assembly. The watchmaker receives the mechanism components after gilding and assembles them, performs necessary regulatory work (such as lubrication, adjusting the accuracy of the movement), and installs the assembled mechanism with the dial and hands into the watch case. In this case, we additionally blued the screws. This technique was used by watchmakers as far back as the 19th century. Combined with the new bright gilding, it looks simply stunning. Moreover, this technique harmonizes the mechanism with the front part of the watch, where the hands are also of a dark blue hue.
We complemented the watch with the final accessory - a handmade black crocodile leather strap. The strap is double-layered, with a hypoallergenic leather lining, hand-stitched with black waxed thread using a saddle stitch. The buckle is made of stainless steel.
The assembled watches undergo quality control inspection (QC). Yes, this stage is mandatory for us as well. All completed watches undergo both visual and mechanical checks covering numerous criteria. Any identified defects are rectified, and only after this process is the product dispatched to the customer. It was during such an inspection that minor scratches on the dial were detected, which needed to be addressed. We removed the dial, polished it, and then reassembled the watch.
Next, accuracy checks were conducted using a timegrapher in various positions. In this case, the accuracy readings were +22 seconds, +30 seconds, and +25 seconds, with a power reserve of over 24 hours. While such deviations might be considered significant for modern watches, they are acceptable for antique mechanisms, which have been in existence for nearly a century. A deviation of up to one minute per day is considered permissible for antique mechanisms. Moreover, accuracy within a range of 30 seconds is considered excellent in this context.
The project has been completed. It lasted quite a while, about 9 months, due to a number of objective reasons beyond our control. The project was challenging and demanding, yet interesting and engaging. Throughout the process, we encountered some difficulties, which we overcame with pride. The final result, presented to you, speaks for itself: the watches look absolutely stunning. They capture attention and will undoubtedly not go unnoticed.
It is also worth noting that the watches are fully functional timepieces and will undoubtedly help their owner emphasize their individuality and style.
If "FEMIDA" has inspired you and you wish to realize your personalized project, our workshop is at your disposal. We sincerely strive to create unique, exclusive watches, integrating your own ideas into them. You will not only be a customer but also a part of our creative team and the eternal history of time, actively participating in the creation of a unique, individually crafted piece of high horology.
