Maltese Vacheron Constantin
Another project, another fascinating journey into the world of watchmaking and jewelry art. And not only...
Vacheron Constantin
In this case, the starting point of the project was our client's passion: he participates in reconstructions of knightly tournaments and approaches this activity with all responsibility and passion.
If we turn to history, the knightly tournament was a military competition among knights in medieval Western Europe. The purpose of the tournament was to demonstrate the combat skills of knights, who formed the main military force of the Middle Ages. Initially, tournaments originated as a way for knights to train in martial arts during peacetime, as well as for experienced participants to showcase their prowess and valor.
The peak of knightly tournaments can be considered the 14th and 15th centuries when they were held particularly often and with great splendor.
Today, military reenactors and enthusiasts periodically organize festivals, a integral part of which are knightly duels.
As we can see, the characters portraying knights of the Sovereign Military Order of Malta, also known as the Order of Malta, are very popular in reconstructions.
Perhaps the most prominent distinguishing feature indicating affiliation with this order is the white eight-pointed Maltese cross. The symbol originates from the coat of arms of the Italian city of Amalfi, whose inhabitants were the founders of the Jerusalem hospital that gave rise to the order.
The idea of the project was chosen to be chivalry and its symbolism. And which renowned Swiss watchmaking manufacture chose the Maltese Cross as its logo? Of course, Vacheron & Constantin! The choice of the mechanism for the project was predetermined.
It is worth noting that this exclusive, individually designed project was created with the direct involvement of the client. We took into account all the ideas and wishes of our client, making changes to the project as it progressed.
We discussed the inception of the project idea, and now let's delve into how the project itself progressed, what difficulties arose during its implementation, and what specific types of work and processes we utilized.
First of all, our artist created several sketches of the future watch dial, striving to embody the client's idea. Two variants made it to the final stage. As a result, our client chose the most "transparent" skeletonized dial containing the image of the Maltese Cross. This decision, firstly, allowed maximum visibility of the mechanism and, secondly, allowed the connection of knightly symbolism with watchmaking through the renowned Swiss manufacturer.
Then we discussed the general details of the project with the client and documented them in the technical specifications:
- - Watch based on Vacheron Constantin mechanism;
- - Case made of 585-grade white gold;
- - Case diameter of 41 mm;
- - Water resistance;
- - Sapphire crystals;
- - Sub-dial at the "9 o'clock" position;
- - Dial made of 925-grade silver with appliqued elements made of 585-grade gold;
- - Premium-class skeletonized mechanism in the style of the dial sketch;
- - Leather strap, width of 22 mm.
Next, we prepared a preliminary project estimate, obtained approval from the client, received a 30% advance payment of the total cost, and began work.
Our designers created a 3D model of the case and winding crown. For the three-piece case, a classic round shape with straight rounded lugs was chosen. The winding crown was designed as conical, with fluted facets.
Afterwards, some minor adjustments were made to the dial sketch – a small seconds sub-dial was added.
As already mentioned, the theme of the project perfectly aligns with the mechanism from the renowned and oldest continuously operating Swiss watch manufacture, Vacheron & Constantin, whose logo is the Maltese Cross. Interestingly, trademarks featuring this symbol were officially registered by the Geneva-based manufacturers as far back as 1880.
We happened to have a vintage Vacheron Constantin mechanism in nickel of the appropriate size in stock. The serial number 266805 is engraved on the barrel and crown wheel bridges of the mechanism, as well as on the plate under the dial, indicating its production in 1901 according to commonly accepted tables. Additionally, the famous trademark of the company, "Vacheron & Constantin, fabricants, Genève," is stamped on the plate and the central bridge.
The high-quality finishing of components, split bridges with bevels, bright clean rubies, polished screw heads, a "Maltese Cross" on the barrel bridge, a "wolf tooth" on the crown and barrel wheels, and the attachment of the crown and barrel wheels with multiple screws – all these are signs of a high-grade mechanism. This mechanism belongs to the "Grade № X" category, which is part of the highest price segment.
A brief historical background: according to a 1884 advertising announcement, a mechanism of the "Grade № X" class in the United States cost $50, which in 2024, in terms of purchasing power, is approximately equivalent to $1,550.
Traditionally, we ordered a historical certificate for this mechanism, which provides a detailed description of the caliber, when it was produced, its construction features, technical specifications, and a brief history of the Vacheron Constantin manufacture. The certificate is presented as a small booklet with a hardcover and is included with the watch.
Well, the project has been approved, the details have been discussed, and our craftsmen have started making the case. Wax blanks, also known as "wax patterns," were cut out for casting:
But! After that, the client wanted to make some changes to the shape of the case, adding side guards to protect the winding crown. We had to modify the model, which led to an increase in the project cost. As a result, we obtained the following wax patterns:
The client approved the prototype, and the case was sent for casting. It should be noted that after casting, the case doesn't look very presentable, to say the least. In the photo below, you can see the so-called sprues on the details of the case – these are the working elements of the casting mold. There is still a lot of meticulous work ahead for grinding and polishing the product.
But first, the case is sent to the lathe operator for machining and fitting of the mechanism. After all the lathe and grinding works are completed, we achieved this beauty. The difference, as they say, is clearly visible to the naked eye. Furthermore, the case will be equipped with two sapphire crystals, scratch-resistant: the upper one is spherical, with a diameter of 37 mm, and the lower one is flat, with a diameter of 34 mm.
One of our team members suggested making a clasp for the strap in the signature "Vacheron-style," and the client agreed. Said and done.
Meanwhile, the engraver worked on the crown, cast together with the case, and the familiar "Maltese Cross" appeared on it. It's worth noting that it became the leitmotif of this project - the famous logo of the Vacheron & Constantin manufacture and the emblem of the knightly order in one form or another is present on all components of the watch, uniting them into a coherent whole.
It must be said that during the process of working with the mechanism, we encountered a small problem. The chosen mechanism was intended for the American market, and therefore, to meet the preferences and habits of the locals, the hands were adjusted using a lever escapement. Well, if Americans liked such a system, what could be done? So, for many watchmakers, converting a lever escapement mechanism to a key-wind system is an insurmountable task. For many - but not for ours! Our watchmaker brilliantly tackled this task, making changes to the design and manufacturing the necessary springs and levers.
During the project implementation, the client wanted the bracelet on the watch to also be made of gold. However, unfortunately, in this matter, we could not fulfill his wish: the master jewelers refused to manufacture the bracelet, citing the complexity of making and adjusting the links of the product. Moreover, such a bracelet would triple the project cost. And finding a ready-made bracelet to fit the custom case is an almost impossible task.
Meanwhile, work on the dial was underway. We made it from 925 sterling silver, first rolling the ingot into a 1mm thick blank. In accordance with the approved sketch, a silver skeleton was cut out, markings were made, and gold elements of 585 fineness were added in the necessary places.
As is known, many creative individuals are perfectionists. Our jewelers decided to enhance the already made buckle for the watch strap by altering the shape and construction of the tongue - this wavy shape is more functional and practical.
Meanwhile, the master has finished cutting and engraving the mechanism. The intermediate result before coating and fitting the dial is shown in the photo below.
As we can see, during the process of working on the mechanism, it underwent deep skeletonization. The elements of the Maltese cross are cut out or engraved on each individual part of the mechanism - on the bridges and plates. At the same time, all original inscriptions and hallmarks are preserved and incorporated into the new design. All engraving work was done by hand. It is necessary to note the highest level of engraver's craftsmanship, characterized by the finest detailing of all elements. Also noteworthy is the use of various engraving techniques. It is evident that the master loves his work and derives satisfaction from it, as they say, working with pleasure.
One can only admire the high artistic jewelry work of the master, who managed to turn the flawless mechanism of the famous manufacture into a true work of contemporary art, while adhering to the overall direction and style of the project!
It was decided to coat the mechanism with black rhodium. Firstly, this will protect the mechanism parts from external influences, and secondly - it simply looks beautiful.
The dial was decided to be satin-finished with concentric circles, and the marks and the inscription VACHERON CONSTANTIN were filled with black rhodium. On the left in the photo below is the dial after filling the marks with rhodium and polishing, on the right - after satin-finishing.
The customer was also offered to choose the color and shape of the hands from several options. They settled on classic Breguet-style hands with a dark blue finish.
It should be noted that, considering the individual non-standard size of the dial, we designed the hands ourselves. They were then cut from steel, equipped with bushings, polished, and heated to a specific temperature to achieve the intense blue color.
Since a considerable amount of precious metal was used in the case, it was decided to send the case to the assay office for hallmarking. Hallmarks were applied both on the case itself and on the lugs.
We also didn't forget about the strap. Since the gold bracelet option was ruled out, we offered the client a choice of several sections of crocodile leather, from which they made their selection. The master then cut out the blanks from the chosen piece of leather and hand-stitched the strap for our project. The resulting product can confidently be placed in the premium segment: high-quality leather, double-layered, with an hypoallergenic lining, hand-stitched with waxed thread using saddle stitching.
To give the movement a finishing touch, it was necessary to polish the steel parts – wheels, screws, springs, and the ratchet wheel. Our craftsmen successfully accomplished this task. However, they felt it wasn't quite enough. In order to add a special, individual charm to the movement, we decided to try sandblasting the barrel and crown wheels. The result exceeded all our boldest expectations – the wheels harmonized perfectly with the overall look of the movement. They now have a non-trivial and attractive appearance.
The intermediate result of our work fully satisfied us, as well as the client.
When all the components of the project were ready – the skeletonized and rhodium-plated movement, the satin-finished dial, the blued hands installed, the case hallmarked, polished, and glazed, with each individual part protected by a film – they were sent to the watchmaker for assembly.
After lubrication, assembly, and adjustment, the watches were sent for quality control in the Quality Control Department (QCD). We must be 100% confident in the exceptional quality of our product. Our workshop has developed a comprehensive system of quality standards. Only after passing thorough and meticulous visual and mechanical checks to ensure compliance with these standards do we send the watches to our client.
In particular, these watches showed excellent accuracy and power reserve on the timing machine: up to +7-8 seconds/day with a power reserve of over 24 hours. For antique movements, a deviation of up to one minute per day is considered acceptable. In our case, the age of the movement is over 120 years, so such accuracy is an outstanding result!
The final stage of the whole story is the approval of the final invoice, taking into account all the actual expenses incurred during the project. Then the client paid for the watches, deducting the prepayment, and the finished product was sent to its happy owner.
Well, another interesting and unusual project has been completed. Skeletonizing the dial and the movement turned out to be very complex and time-consuming in this case. Overall, the master spent about a month on this work. But the result was worth it, wouldn't you agree?
In collaboration with the client, we created luxurious men's skeletonized watches that attract attention and evoke nothing but enthusiastic admiration.
The project itself lasted quite a long time - about 10 months. This was due to a number of objective and subjective reasons. Like in any manufacturing process, we faced a number of technical challenges during its implementation, which our team successfully overcame with honor. We enjoy challenges, and we derive great satisfaction from overcoming them. We love solving unconventional problems and, together with our clients, we enjoy the results we achieve.
We believe that in this project, we successfully combined the aesthetics of mechanical wristwatches with the heritage of Swiss haute horlogerie and our client's personal passion for the history of knighthood and knightly tournaments. The watches will undoubtedly emphasize his individuality, taste, and style.
If you have been inspired by "MALTIETS" and desire to own exclusive, individually crafted timepieces in a single piece, where your boldest fantasies will be realized, feel free to contact us. The watchmaking workshop Mole is always at your service. For us, nothing is impossible.
Write your own story. We are ready to listen to you, while the rest of the world only pays attention to the voice of brands.
